Try 8 Types of Caviar at Singapore’s First Caviar Fine Dining Restaurant
Sturgeon eggs are one of those foods that have gained notoriety as markers of opulence and prestige since the Russian tsars poured spoonfuls of them onto their dishes. Highly prized for its rarity, depending on the type of sturgeon and especially if it comes from a vulnerable species, caviar is a spectacle of edible richness.
There are many ways to enjoy the umami of black eggs, but if modestly sized caviar bumps (currently trending at restaurants like Corduroy Palace) aren’t your cup of tea, the Caviar restaurant at the Renaissance Palace is the place to be. place to go. .
Opened by Jason Ong, who is also responsible for Uni Gallery, the gourmet restaurant offers up to eight types of caviar such as the beluga, sevruga and oscietra varieties as well as the Kaluga Queen produced in China. It’s incorporated into dishes, served on a beaded spoon or with six glasses of premium vodka, but in the end, there’s no doubt that it’s the piece de resistance.
(Related: 5 Things You Didn’t Know About Caviar)
For the caviar lover, the Ong establishment could well be the playground he is looking for. After all, you can be sure the man knows his stuff since he’s been a purveyor of premium seafood for eight years. All of the caviar, in its various sized tin cans, is displayed alongside a shallow ice tray near the open kitchen where the chef’s table is located.
Unfortunately none of these are open and served to us during our meal there. Instead, it’s done in the kitchen where the fresh-faced team is led by head chef Karleen Kasim. Under 30 herself, Kasim has worked at Cure and Nae:um, two fine dining restaurants that are causing a stir with their modern Irish and Korean interpretations.
It is clear that Kasim and his young team of chefs have distilled the techniques learned during their time with top caliber chefs; the nine course menu is well executed and with a good pace. There’s a knowledge of contrasting flavors to pair with caviar, without feeling like you’re trying too hard. From the trio of snacks, the Tomato Macaron with Uni Cream, Sturia Oscietra caviar and sea urchin tongues is an excellent set of brined egg pearls with a sweet paste and a dusting of tomato powder for a touch of acidity.
(Related: Why You See Caviar on Menus Everywhere)
Overall, however, the pairing of flavor profiles tends to fall on the more predictable and safer end of the spectrum, such as caviar with seafood (sweet botan ebi tartare) and caviar with something starchy thing (toast and potato mousse). These are tried-and-true combinations reminiscent of dishes we’ve eaten elsewhere and more often than not get the winning votes from the table. As the saying goes, if the wheel isn’t broken, why fix it?
Still, there are surprises to be had in Kasim’s tasting presentation. A burrata whipped with honey and verjuice served in a box of caviar then covered with thin slices of green grapes and Canadian uni is among the dishes without sturgeon eggs. Acting almost like a palate cleanser, it’s a creamy pudding of saltiness, sweetness and sourness.
Then there is the Sakelees ice cream served with a dehydrated lime meringue and topped with a generous quenelle of Polenco Siberian caviar. It is a dish that divides; Ong is a fan of the sweet and savory combination while my table mate and I aren’t sure if we are. sake kasu gives the ice cream enough of its own umami-fruity flavor to go with the eggs, but was overpowered by the saltiness of the caviar.
(Related: Caviar Colony Has a Sturgeon Species Exclusive to It)
Fortunately, there is champagne to wash it down. The drinks list is quite extensive, offering a reasonable selection by the glass, such as NV Champagne Legras & Haas Intuition Brut and Johnnie Walker Blue Label. While the list of bottled champagnes leans towards older vintages, such as a Krug Brut 2006 or the splendid Dom Pérignon P2 Brut 2003.
All in all, it’s a pretty decent start for a young team. But, Caviar has a long way to go before it really grasps how to showcase the delicate differences between different sturgeon roe (and I don’t mean just accentuate the flavors). With more practice and research, we hope the team will become more confident in execution and presentation, which is especially crucial given that they are in full view of counter guests who pay full price for the show. ‘experience.
390 Orchard Road, B1-07 Renaissance Palace, Singapore 238871. Tel. : 9888 1217