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Home›Russian hotel›Caviar Kaspia opens its doors at the Mark Hotel

Caviar Kaspia opens its doors at the Mark Hotel

By Lawrence C. Saleh
April 20, 2022
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American fans of Caviar Kaspia’s twice-baked caviar potato will no longer have to travel to Paris for this iconic dish when one of the fashion world’s favorite restaurants opens its first permanent location in New York. York this fall.

Occupying the ground floor space of the Mark Hotel at the corner of 77th Street and Madison Avenue, the restaurant and boutique of Caviar Kaspia will be designed by Jacques Grange and will serve his famous twice-dressed baked potato of caviar, eggs with caviar, pasta with caviar, blinis with salmon and bottarga, among other dishes.

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Caviar Kaspia opened in the eighth arrondissement of Paris on Place de la Madeleine in 1927 and was a favorite among the fashion elite and celebrities for decades. Although he has another permanent location in Dubai and has held pop-ups in the past in New York, Courcheval, London and Monte Carlo, the Mark location will be the first permanent outpost in New York.

When it opens this fall, the restaurant and boutique will join a city already experiencing a caviar boom. The Nines, which opened earlier this year and has been compared to a downtown version of Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle, offers an ode to Kaspia Caviar on its menu: twice-cooked Kaspian potato, served with fresh cream and garnished with 30 grams of Caviar d’Osètre. The Osetra caviar on the dish is said to come from CaviAIR, a new company that also sells caviar directly to consumers in an effort to demystify the delicacy. One of its millennial founders, Ariel Arce, is a champagne expert who also runs downtown New York’s hotspots, the Tokyo Record Bar, Air’s Champagne Parlour, Niche Niche and Special Club.

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What’s behind the rise of caviar? Could Instagram participate in its democratization?

Rita Jammet, a member of the Dames d’Escoffier who, with her husband, owned the famous New York restaurant La Caravelle and now runs a brand of champagne that bears her name, thinks so.

“Instagram has definitely helped expose more people to caviar because of the visuals and storytelling,” Jammet said. “It’s particularly useful for showcasing the many and unexpected ways to enjoy caviar beyond traditional blinis: potato chips, adding them to fried chicken, any tartare (beef, scallops, tuna ), and even pizza or Iberian jamón.”

Jammet speaks on behalf of many food-focused New Yorkers who are thrilled that caviar is becoming more accessible in the city. “New York definitely needs more caviar-centric restaurants, and the fact that Caviar Russe has expanded and re-opened on Madison Avenue is certainly helping to make caviar more accessible, not just to buy, but also to enjoy. experience in a food service establishment,” she said. “Compared to Paris, or even London, we have to catch up.”

In recent weeks, the United States and the European Union have banned Russian imports, including caviar, but these bans are unlikely to have a significant effect on the caviar trade in the regions, as very little caviar sold today actually comes from Russia. China now produces more caviar than any other country, reports Quartz. The world’s largest caviar producer, Chinese brand Kaluga Queen, produces about 60 tonnes of caviar per year, more than Russia’s total caviar exports from 2014 to 2020.

So supply shouldn’t be an issue for New York’s top restaurants where, Jammet noted, there are already a few notable caviar creations on the menus: Jean-Georges’ iconic egg brioche toast with a good portion of caviar, Le Bernardin’s caviar in a cloud of potatoes, and The Modern’s eggs on eggs on eggs. While Petrossian closed its New York restaurant for renovations a few years ago and hasn’t reopened it, Marky’s Caviar’s Huso restaurant offers a caviar-focused tasting menu a few blocks from the future location of Caviar Kaspia. .

An Upper East Side caviar rejection could ensue.

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